Retin-A: Why This Cream Is Derms' Gold Standard In Skin Care 

Retin-A is a prescription-strength, brand-name product that falls under the retinoid class of ingredients. Retinoids are derived from vitamin A and have been shown to have many benefits when used topically: "It helps speed up skin cell turnover and increase collagen synthesis. This, in turn, helps to target fine lines, pigmentation, and, at higher doses, acne," says board-certified dermatologist Jennifer Herrmann, M.D. There is a reason derms have dubbed it "the gold standard." 

Retin-A, specifically, has become the catchall for almost all prescription-strength vitamin A derivatives—sometimes it's even mistakenly used to describe over-the-counter retinoids too (those are technically called retinols, though). Compare it to facial napkins: You may ask someone to kindly pass you a Kleenex, when you're not really asking for that specific brand—you're just referring to any tissue. Or more aptly, perhaps you ask a friend for an Advil when you have an ache; you are likely just looking for any form of ibuprofen.

"It cannot be used during pregnancy," says Hermann, as some studies have linked it to birth defects3 (the main link is through oral vitamin A derives, so doctors are less sure how strong the link is when used topically). Given there is no scientific consensus on this matter, it is best to avoid it to be safe.

One of the most notorious side effects is the dry skin, flaking, and redness that come in the first few weeks. "Typically, it does cause initial irritation as the skin acclimates. This tends to subside over consistent use," says Hermann. 

You should apply Retin-A on freshly washed skin at night. It should only be used at night as it causes photosensitivity, or increase irritation from the sun. You can follow it with your evening skin care routine as normal. Just be mindful that Retin-A is an exfoliator, and so the rest of your skin care products should err on the side of gentle (read: don't mix Retin-A with a glycolic acid serum). "If using it for cosmetic purposes, typically a low dose is used very sparingly over your face a few times weekly, then increased to nightly if tolerated," says Hermann. 

As for the amount, "less is more," says Hermann. "Typically a pea-size amount of cream is all that is needed for the entire face. If you have trouble spreading it, it can be mixed with a little light moisturizer or serum to help it spread farther."