New Study Finds PFAS Present In About Half Of US Beauty Products — Many Unlabeled

We have a long-held belief that if you want to be responsible players in the clean beauty industry, it is vital that you stay on top of the research. What we advocate for in regards to skin and hair care products, makeup, and ingredients changes with the time and available data. This is why our definition of clean and safe beauty is always evolving and adjusting. 

Well, recent research conducted at the University of Notre Dame and published in the journal Environmental Science & Technology Letters1 found some pretty alarming news: About half of U.S. and Canadian cosmetics contain per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), an industrial compound associated with serious health conditions. The researchers tested many types of makeup products to detect high levels of fluorine, an indicator that PFAS are present. Most of the products tested did not indicate having PFAS on their ingredient list. Yes, really.  

PFAS are common industrial compounds, often found in things like nonstick frying pans. Past research has connected PFAS to things like lower birth weight, weakened immunity, and certain cancers. Here we will note that many of the studies were done on populations with higher degrees of exposure to the ingredients; while more research is needed to make definitive claims, many people—ourselves included—avoid them altogether out of caution. 

Additionally, they are actually what's known as "forever chemicals," meaning they don't break down. Both scientists and environmental activists see the concern in this as it means it can bioaccumulate in your body and the earth, like our water supply as an example. As Graham Peaslee, Ph.D., a physics professor at Notre Dame and the principal investigator of the study, said in this Associated Press article: "PFAS is a persistent chemical. When it gets into the bloodstream, it stays there and accumulates." 

To put this all into context in the beauty space: PFAS have traditionally been known to show up in cosmetics previously—most notably in long-wear and waterproof formulas. However, given their reputation as a "forever chemical" and potential negative side effects, they've fallen out of favor in cosmetics. 

But that's why this report was so jarring. Of the products tested in this study, few actually labeled it on the ingredient list. Yes, that means consumers were inadvertently and unknowingly using PFAS.

Like most things in the beauty space, unfortunately the burden rests on the consumer. (Don't worry, though; you're not alone—we'll be keeping our eye on this too.) That means consumers will need to be extra cautious with makeup for the time being. 

And right now, you may be wondering: But how can I spot these in products? And the short answer is since so many of these aren't labeled on the ingredient list, you can't.