Adapalene vs. Tretinoin: Benefits For Acne + Aging, Use Tips & More

We tapped a few dermatologists to get the scoop on these two retinoids, how they work, and how to use them properly. 

Board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., says that adapalene is a third-generation retinoid that has been studied in numerous trials that show it's highly effective and has a low risk of skin irritation. In one study, 74% of users found a decrease in acne-induced inflammation1 with the use of this retinoid. 

For example, if you have sensitive skin, this may not be the retinoid for you. Tretinoin works by irritating further to activate cell turnover; you may experience redness, irritation, blisters, and even a change in skin pigmentation. So it's important to only use this product under the supervision of a doctor. And even with the undesirable side effects, research shows that tretinoin helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles2, correct skin texture and tone, and even reduce hyperpigmentation.  

Libby agrees and says, "Adapalene is perceived to be less efficacious, but in reality, studies suggest that it has similar efficacy to tretinoin, just with better tolerability." So if you're not sure which is best for you, we suggest consulting your dermatologist for a more detailed perspective on which retinoid works for your skin type and concerns. 

In short, King and Libby each agree the answer is both. "Both of these retinoids work to stimulate collagen and elastin production, which thickens the skin and reduces noticeable fine lines and wrinkles over time," Libby says. 

Again, King and Libby agree that both tretinoin and adapalene are great options for treating acne. "They both work to decrease comedone formation, which is the start of the acne lesion," Libby says. Although it's worth noting that adapalene is better tolerated by most skin types, so Libby says if a patient experiences irritation to tretinoin, she will either suggest mixing tretinoin with a moisturizer or switch the patient to using adapalene. 

As with all new skin care products, it's best to consult your local dermatologist before beginning a new regimen. But it's important to note that neither adapalene or tretinoin should be used by women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. "But other than that, anyone, even as early as teens and 20s, can incorporate these into their skin care routine," Libby says. 

To help reduce or prevent irritation, Libby suggests using the retinoid sandwich technique and apply on the four quadrants of the face and the neck. "In the retinoid sandwich technique, the moisturizer is the bread and the retinoid is the meat," Libby suggests. "So, apply a thin layer of moisturizer first, then a pea-sized amount of retinoid, followed by another layer of moisturizer." This will not decrease the efficacy of the retinoid, but it will increase the tolerability of the product. 

Both adapalene and tretinoin are effective options for treating acne and signs of aging. While adapalene is the gentler of the two, they have both been proved to work effectively on a variety of skin types. To better understand which option is best for you, talk with your dermatologist before adding either of these ingredients to your skin care routine.