Serum Or Moisturizer: What Goes First In Your Skin Care Routine?

In the world of skin care, there's a plethora of options to choose from for every single step. While picking the right product for your skin type is important, so is the order in which you apply it. This is especially true when it comes to active serums and creamy moisturizers. 

The short answer? Serums go first, no doubt about it. "It's best to layer lighter products like serums before heavier products like moisturizers," board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., tells mbg. 

This is because moisturizers contain some occlusive ingredients, which help them trap moisture in the skin but prevent other ingredients from penetrating. So if you layer on a serum over your face cream, the likelihood of your skin absorbing that product and thus reaping all of the benefits is slim. 

However, there is one caveat here: "If you want to decrease the potency of a serum—like if it contains potentially irritating ingredients like retinol or salicylic acid, then applying a moisturizer first could help make the serum less potent and less irritating," King notes. 

This technique is often referred to as the "retinol sandwich," where you layer moisturizer under and over your retinol to buffer the effect. But should you do this with other serum ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C? No, unless you think these serums might trigger a negative reaction from the skin (which is pretty unlikely for most people).

An evening cleanse is nonnegotiable. If you're taking off makeup or sunscreen at the end of the day, you may even opt for a double cleanse. This means taking an oil-based cleanser to dry skin, adding a bit of water to your hands, and massaging further into the skin, rinsing that cleanser off, and following up with a gentle water-based cleanser. 

Some like to use a toner post-cleanse, whether it be an astringent product or a hydrating essence—here's a deeper explanation of what toners are and the benefits they provide. 

Remember: Serums should hit the skin before your moisturizer. If you're using a retinol serum or a chemical exfoliant, be sure to apply it to your skin once your toner has dried down a bit. When applied to wet skin, products tend to absorb deeper into the pores—which you don't want for those potentially irritating actives. 

On the flip side, if you're using a hyaluronic acid serum, then you should definitely apply it to damp skin. See, hyaluronic acid, along with aloe vera and glycerin, is categorized as a humectant. Meaning, it pulls water into the skin, so you want to give it the water it needs to do its job properly.  

Next up, we have moisturizer. If you have oily skin, you might prefer a lightweight, water-based moisturizer. Those with drier skin types may prefer something that resembles more of a cream and less of a gel—it all boils down to skin type and personal preference. 

Eye cream is technically optional, but if you're looking to brighten dark circles, ease fine lines, or reduce under-eye puffiness, then it's basically essential. See, these little products contain actives specifically formulated for the thin, delicate skin under the eyes. 

If you were to use a strong retinol or vitamin C serum that's formulated for the face in this area, you run the risk of irritation (which can lead to more dark circles and wrinkles, we must note).

During your evening routine, using oils as a final layer can help lock in moisture. If you have oily skin, you may not need this step, but those with dry skin will love it. 

This method is often called "natural slugging," as you're applying an occlusive layer over the rest of your skin care but using a natural, botanically derived oil rather than petrolatum jelly. 

Now, what is a serum, really? Well, it's not so black and white: Serums may include a wide variety of ingredients, from antioxidants to hydrators to retinol, and others may even cocktail a few different players. 

But on a technical level, "Serums have higher percentages of active ingredients in a light formulation that absorbs quickly and should be followed with a moisturizer," King explains. Serums are viewed as the "treatment" step in your skin care routine. They're probably your most potent product—and therefore are often the most expensive.

While the standard skin care routine from a few years back called for actives in every single step (remember that chemical exfoliant craze?), the modern-day approach is totally different. "Instead, use really active ingredients placed within a really hydrating and barrier-supporting routine, whether it's a professional treatment or your home care," professional esthetician Sofie Pavitt once told mbg. 

Moisturizer is your hydrating step, and it's one of the most important parts of any skin care routine. "Moisturizer should have humectants, emollients, and occlusives and usually lower percentages of active ingredients," King explains. 

It's important to have each of these in your product to ensure all-around hydration. As stated above, humectants help pull in water, while emollients nourish and soften the skin, all to have occlusives lock it all in—you can read more about the different types of hydrators here. 

If you're interested in a basic, no-frills skin care routine, you definitely don't need a serum to get by. However, if you're looking for greater improvements, whether you want to brighten your complexion, ease fine lines and wrinkles, or treat acne, then you'll likely benefit from a serum. 

And while some serums come with a high price, there are definitely great affordable options out there, too. If you're on a budget, invest in complex serums like retinol and vitamin C, and snag more affordable hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and other single-ingredient serums.