Will Taking Collagen Benefit My Skin? Plus The Supplements You Should Try
You may have noticed a new kind of health and natural beauty product on the scene. It comes in the form of white powder but it's not protein powder or a L-glutamine—it's collagen. And although collagen has long been used in topical creams and serums to promote skin elasticity and fight wrinkles, we're now seeing it put directly into smoothies—like in the case of Vital Protein's and Primal Kitchen's collagen protein powders—and many people, including some famous yogis and runners, swear by it.
And for many of us looking for the most natural way to look healthy and vibrant, supplementing with collagen is definitely intriguing. But does it really work? Does it even make any sense to take collagen orally? Functional and integrative dietitian and nutritionist Nour Zibdeh, M.S., RDN, CLT, for example, says, “Collagen will provide your body with the amino acids that are the building blocks of your connective tissue, so you should see improvement in your hair, skin, and nails health.”
Well, as mindbodygreen's health editor, I did the research for you and consulted some of our leading integrative health experts, skin specialists, and dermatologists to answer your most burning collagen questions.
What is collagen: peptides, protein, and powder
So we've all seen collagen on our favorite wellness guru's instagram page, but what does it really do in the body? Collagen is a family of fibrous proteins that are actually the most abundant proteins in the animal kingdom. There are at least 16 different types, and each helps make up the structure of our skin, bone, cartilage and muscle.
Collagen is made by our body throughout our lifetime, with the purpose of helping tissues be more elastic and withstand stretching (AKA: it keeps skin looking young and supple). Collagen is most frequently seed as a white powder, which is made of collagen peptides—a form of hydrolyzed collagen (meaning some of the bonds in it have already been broken down).
Collagen and skin health
Are you ready to get science-y? The two main layers that make up the skin are the epidermis and the dermis. The dermis contains fibroblasts, which are cells that produce elastin and collagen. For the skin to function normally and appear youthful, the structure of the dermal layer must be maintained, but as we age the structure suffers because aged fibroblasts produce less collagen. This results in visible signs of aging, which are usually most prominent on the face.
Our body produces collagen throughout our lifetime, but the production slows, and so the theory is that topical collagen products—and now collagen powders taken orally—will help support the body's natural production. Taz Bhatia, M.D., an integrative medicine physician and mbg Collective member, actually takes a collagen supplement and loves it: "It improves hair and nail strength and can halt skin wrinkling, providing the skin one of its basic ingredients to stay firm and taught."
According to Rob Maru—a holistic nutritionist, natural products innovator and collagen expert—collagen-based products (specifically the ones that have ingredients supported by human clinical trials) have been shown to:
- Counteract skin aging
- Improve skin hydration
- Reduce facial lines and wrinkles significantly
- Reduce eye wrinkle depth
- Improve skin elasticity
- Increase collagen content in the skin dermis
William Cole, D.C., IFMCP, a functional medicine expert and mbg Collective member, has a bunch of patients that are taking collagen supplements, saying "they notice their skin becoming brighter, nails becoming stronger, hair becoming more luminous, and they often experience less joint pain!" And while reduced joint pain may seem like a strange benefit, remember that collagen is found in connective tissue all over the body, not just in the skin. Dr. Bhatia even praises collagen for its ability to improve bone health and stabilize the microbiome—promoting a healthy gut.
And while that all sounds great (and maybe even a little too good to be true), many of us want to know more about exactly how collagen works and what the science says.
Collagen research: Is it really as good as it sounds?
The most popular response to this question is that the research on collagen is actually quite good—possibly explaining its current fame in the wellness community. According to Douglas Toal, Ph.D., a clinical microbiologist, "there's good evidence that oral collagen supplementation improves skin health." Studies show that collagen hydrolysate is absorbed in the GI tract and, following digestion, is circulated in the blood and can accumulate in the skin.
So that's good news for collagen lovers! Because for many other supplements—even the famous curcumin—there are some doubts about how well they are actually absorbed and delivered to different areas of the body.
Topical collagen versus oral collagen supplementation
According to experts, topical versions of collagen can also be effective, but they are really only a short-term solution and probably don't penetrate well enough to access the deeper layers of the skin. "Oral forms, by contrast, are designed to increase the body’s natural collagen production so it can fortify and build collagen at the dermal layer. Oral supplementation helps to deliver specific amino acids, which are considered the building blocks of collagen synthesis. This can only be achieved through oral supplementation." explains Maru.
Dendy Engelman, M.D., an award-winning NYC dermatologic surgeon who is well-versed in all things skin and aging, agrees with him. She explains that topical preparations help as a quick fix, but oral dietary supplements help support the skin structure from the inside out. They bolster the body’s natural collagen production by being absorbed through the bloodstream and reaching the underlying layers first, offering a longer term solution.
Other ingredients you may see in collagen supplements
If you've even wanted to try a new supplement, you can probably relate to the moment when you're standing in the aisle or scrolling through amazon pages trying to decipher between different brands, blends, and wondering why some have additional ingredients and others don't. But, if we know exactly what we're looking for beforehand—it's possible to avoid this situation entirely. And so, a couple of ingredients you might see in your collagen powder are vitamin C and hyaluronic acid:
1. Vitamin C
Vitamin C plays a major role in collagen formation in the body and is a vital molecule for skin health. It seems to be included in these supplements to give your body's natural collagen production an additional boost.
2. Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is another molecule found in the skin that works to keep it plump and well hydrated. Unfortunately like collagen, its production decreases as you age. According to the Cleveland Clinic, there isn't much research on how effective hyaluronic acid supplementation actually is, but it does "show promise for treating aging skin" and that's why you'll often see it on the ingredient list.
Marine collagen versus bovine collagen
If you've gotten this far and decided you might want to give collagen a try, look for a brand with a good reputation and track record—or go see a holistic doctor for a recommendation. The best sources of collagen are those that have been used in research studies and have been evaluated for their safety and efficacy. Dr. Cole's favorite forms of collagen are marine collagen from wild caught fish and organic, grass-fed bovine collagen peptides . Eva Selhub, M.D., an integrative medicine physician, tells her patients interested in collagen to look for one with hydrolyzed fish collagen (marine collagen), which has been the subject of many collagen research studies.
It's important to know that collagen is only found in animal products, so there are no vegan collagen supplement options and we should always look for one that is ethically sourced. For all those vegans out there, Rob Maru offers that "one could supplement with plant-based collagen building blocks such as vitamin C and specific amino acids such as glycine, proline and lysine." This is not the same as directly supplementing with collagen powder, but does work to support the body's natural collagen in just a slightly different way. How effective are these vegan options? There isn't a ton of evidence, but some research supports the idea that these alternatives can help combat skin aging and support collagen production.
Deciding if collagen is right for you.
So should you be taking a collagen supplement? Even with all this information, it can be hard to make a decision. I can't answer this question for you, but I encourage you to ask yourself if collagen's benefits align with your health goals are and if a collagen supplement is something you're willing to add to your wellness regime.
There don't seem to be any real risks to taking collagen—so an experiment might be warranted to see if you notice any changes in your skin health and quality. At what age should you start supplementing? It's hard to say, but we do know that after 20, one percent less collagen is produced by your skin every year. We'll let you do the math.
The best collagen supplements of 2019:
1. Thrive Market, Grass-Fed Collagen Peptides
Collagen supplements typically contain hydrolyzed collagen, which means the collagen has been broken down into short chains of amino acids called peptides. This process, called hydrolysis, is why collagen conveniently dissolves in liquid and is virtually tasteless, making it the perfect when you’re on the go. These peptides from Thrive are made from the hides of non-GMO, grass-fed, pasture-raised bovines. Each serving delivers 10g of collagen protein, which according to integrative and functional nutritionist, Nour Zibdeh, M.S., RDN, CLT, "can increase lean muscle and help improve body composition better than other proteins." At just shy of 25 bucks, these collagen peptides are a pretty good deal, too. Thrive Market Grass Fed Collagen Peptides, $24.99.
2. Garden of Life, Collagen Turmeric
If you’re interested specifically in collagen’s joint health benefits, the perfect product exists for you. This collagen powder from Garden of Life contains collagen peptides from grass-fed bovine collagen and clinically studied chicken collagen as well as 500mg of fermented organic turmeric root for added joint health support. Turmeric is famous for it's anti-inflammatory properties thanks to it's high concentration of the compound curcumin. This one is sweetened with organic apple flavor, Stevia, and cinnamon (which has it's own set of health benefits). Garden of Life Collagen Turmeric, $27.19.
3. HUM Nutrition Collagen Love Capsules
Because collagen dissolves so well in liquids, you'll almost always find it in powder-form. (Keyword: almost.) If you're not the smoothie type, don't fret. You can still take collagen and take advantage of its benefits with these Collagen Love capsules from HUM. They’re full of collagen plus other ingredients like red wine extract, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid that promote skin elasticity, moisture, and firmness. And it’s as easy as taking three small capsules every day with food—no blender required. Hum Nutrition, Collagen Love, $40.
4. Primal Kitchen Collagen Peptides Packets
Remember when I said some unsightly characters can find their way into you supplement bottles? Heavy metals are a big one to look out for. A great supplement brand will always test their product for contaminants like pesticides, microbes, and heavy metals. Lucky for us, Primal Kitchen tests each lot of collagen produced for compliance with regulatory standards for heavy metals. When it comes to supplements, that transparency is definitely something to look for. That's a good enough reason to keep these convenient, on-the-go packets in your bag at all times—right? Primal Kitchen Collagen Peptides Packets, $29.95 (20-count).
5. Vital Proteins Marine Collagen
For all the pescatarians out there, I have good news. There’s a perfect collagen supplement for you. This Vital Proteins marine collagen is made from the scales of fresh, non-gmo, wild-caught white fish. It contains a single ingredient: collagen peptides (from wild caught whitefish). Simplicity is another great sign that you’re buying from a legit company. There are some exceptions, but a general rule to follow is that the shorter the ingredients list—especially when it comes to "added ingredients," the better. Vital Proteins Unflavored Marine Collagen, $36.
6. Bulletproof Vanilla Collagen Protein
Bulletproof is famous for its no-frills approach to boosting health and performance, but this vanilla collagen protein breaks the mold. It’s made from pasture-raised cows without added hormones and contains added XCT oil—an oil made from pure caprylic and capric acid sourced from coconut oil—for sustained energy. It also contains vanilla flavor and coconut creamer powder. Put it all together and its guaranteed to make your morning coffee to a whole new level. Bulletproof Vanilla Collagen Protein, $39.95.
7. Moon Juice Vegan Collagen Protection
Since it’s made from the connective tissue, bones, cartilage and animals like cows and chickens, there is no plant-based way to supplement with collagen. But don’t give up up that youthful glow just yet vegans! This supplement from Moon Juice contains ingredients like rice bran and silver ear mushrooms that are thought to support your body’s own collagen production. The best part? You can also incorporate it into a ton of recipes, like this irresistible vegan elderberry ice cream. Moon Juice Beauty Shroom Vegan Collagen Protection, $58.
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