How To Even Skin Tone: 7 Derm-Approved Natural Tips & Treatments
An uneven skin tone can come from a variety of causes. For example, those with acne scars or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation often complain about the residual brown or pink hues that take months or weeks to fade. Some may develop melasma as they age. Others will form sun or age spots from prolonged UV exposure. And some may complain of redness from rosacea or other inflammatory skin conditions. Finally, you may also have textural issues, which can cause an uneven appearance. You also may have a compilation of any of these triggers.
In short: There's a lot to tackle here. So your first step is to identify what might be causing your skin tone concerns and treat that underlying cause (we explain several treatments below). The good news is that many of these help tend to a variety of issues; simply find a remedy (or remedies) that work for your needs.
Glowing skin, right this way:
Regular exfoliation, without going overboard, is one of the most effective and easy ways to keep skin glowing and even. Exfoliation is essentially just the process of removing the top layer of dead skin cells from the epidermis, thereby allowing younger, plumper skin cells to move to the top. There are two main categories of exfoliators, physical and chemical. Physical exfoliation lifts the skin manually and can come in the form of face brushes, scrubs, treatments (like microdermabrasion), or masks.
Chemical exfoliation usually involves two of the major kinds of acids, alpha and beta hydroxy acids. AHAs, like glycolic or lactic acid, work by breaking down the bonds between skin cells, thereby helping them shed faster. These are also more hydrophilic, meaning they are more hydrating. "They can be simultaneously exfoliating and hydrating, making them very beneficial to many skin types," says board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, M.D., BHAS, like salicylic acids, work by dissolving oil and lipid bonds and tend to be better for those with oily skin.
You can find these acids in serums, peels, masks, and washes.
This antioxidant is beloved by skin care folk and professionals thanks to its collagen-boosting and brightening abilities. For collagen production, vitamin C helps stimulate fibroblasts (which are the things in our cells that create collagen and elastin) as well as help stabilize the collagen you do have. This will help even texture and tone, as keeping your skin's structure strong inherently helps the appearance.
Vitamin C goes far beyond collagen, however. Using vitamin C topically has been shown to help overall quality and tone by diminishing hyperpigmentation, brightening complexions, decreasing moisture loss, helping reduce skin inflammation, and fighting against UV-induced photodamage.
Bonus: It's good for all skin types, and most people find it tolerable. "Vitamin C is one of the few active ingredients that can benefit all skin types," says Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D., board-certified dermatologist in the Washington, D.C., metro area and associate professor of dermatology at George Washington University Medical Center.
Much like vitamin C, retinol (or retinoids, retinoic acid, or Retin-A), is a favorite ingredient for skin care professionals thanks to its renowned efficacy. It also works to help even skin tone twofold.
First up: Retinol spurs collagen production: "Retinol binds to retinoid receptors within skin cells," says board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D. This "activates genes that upregulate collagen production."
Second, it also increases cell turnover at the cellular level. "Besides stimulating production of new collagen, retinol enhances cell turnover," says Zeichner. "This means it sheds dead and damaged cells that make the skin look dull." And while retinol thickens the lower layers of the skin, he says, it thins out the top layer (the stratum corneum), which creates a dewy glow.
Retinol, however, tends to have less tolerability, although modern formulas are usually more gentle and sophisticated. Adding one to your routine usually takes an adjustment period where the skin may experience peeling, flaking, redness, and dryness. Some with highly sensitive skin are never fully able to tolerate the ingredient, while others will do so quickly.
If your skin tone concerns stem from dark spots (be it from the sun, age, or acne), one way to help brighten these is through a natural active called arbutin.
"Arbutin is a naturally occurring compound in the leaves of a variety of plants, including pear trees and the bearberry plant, that prevents the formation of melanin," says board-certified dermatologist Keira Barr, M.D., noting that the overproduction of melanin in certain areas is what makes up dark spots and melasma patches. "It functions as a tyrosinase inhibitor to provide skin-brightening effects. This happens because when your skin and these cells come in contact with UV light, the tyrosinase enzyme is activated. Arbutin blocks this."
Arbutin is the natural and safe alternative to the controversial hydroquinone (an ingredient still somewhat used as a skin lightener). Those who wish to brighten skin should look into this ingredient.
Inflammation wreaks havoc on the skin, contributing to collagen-loss, a weakened skin barrier, and even tonal changes. If you want clear, glowing skin, inflammation reduction should be top priority.
There are plenty of soothing ingredients to choose from. A few other holistic skin care favorites are turmeric (i.e., curcumin), plant oils (i.e., olive, argan, safflower, sunflower oils), centella asiatica (i.e., gotu kola), comfrey, and hemp or CBD. (Read more about ways to reduce inflammation here.)
Inflammation, we know, is also internal. So be mindful of what you are consuming, as certain foods can trigger inflammation in the skin—particularly those with a high glycemic index.
Given that UV damage contributes to premature aging, wrinkles, and skin tone concerns, protecting your skin from excessive sun exposure is key. This doesn't mean avoid the sun at all costs (vitamin D and mental health are important, too), but it does mean investing in a quality physical sunscreen that you feel comfortable wearing daily.
Physical sunscreens are those made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (often a combination of both). They block the UV rays from penetrating the skin cells by sitting atop the skin, acting as a shield of sorts.
Here are our favorite physical sunscreens for the face that work for any skin tone.
Dry skin is dull, flaky, and ashy skin. So one simple way to improve skin tone is to make sure you are keeping it hydrated. This is especially true if you are also using any exfoliating method above, as exfoliation can contribute to dryness.
This will also ensure you are supporting your skin barrier function, a vital part of skin health. A compromised skin barrier not only has practical implications ("It protects us from mechanical injury, low humidity, cold, heat, sun, wind, chemical exposure, bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other pathogens," explains board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., stating that, "a healthy barrier is critical to normal skin function"), but it has aesthetic ones, too.
Alexandra Engler is the Beauty Director at mindbodygreen. She received her journalism degree from Marquette University, graduating first in the department. She has worked at many top publications and brands including Harper's Bazaar, Marie Claire, SELF, and Cosmopolitan; her byline has appeared in Esquire, Sports Illustrated, and Allure.com. In her current role, she covers all the latest trends and updates in the clean and natural beauty space, as well as travel, financial wellness, and parenting. She has reported on the intricacies of product formulations, the diversification of the beauty industry, and and in-depth look on how to treat acne from the inside, out (after a decade-long struggle with the skin condition herself). She lives in Brooklyn, New York.