Discover The Glow-Inducing Benefits Of Vitamin C For Skin & How To Find A Great Product
If there was a Tinder for skin solutions, vitamin C would be a total swipe right. It ticks all the boxes: turns back the clock on wrinkles (check); fights free radicals (check); evens out skin tone (check); gives your complexion serious glow (check). "Vitamin C is one of the few active ingredients that can benefit all skin types," says Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D., board-certified dermatologist in the Washington, D.C., metro area and associate professor of dermatology at George Washington University Medical Center.
Plus, there's plenty of science to back its performance. Here, learn why vitamin C is so beneficial for skin, how to apply it and ingest it for maximum benefit, and what to look for in a high-quality vitamin C skin care product.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Not only does the skin contain high concentrations of vitamin C, using it topically has been shown to help diminish hyperpigmentation, brighten complexions, decrease moisture loss, help reduce skin inflammation, and protect against UV-induced photodamage. It's a topical vitamin for your skin with antioxidant protection and anti-aging benefits.
But the biggie benefit, the one that's most likely to get your attention, is vitamin C's role in collagen production. It doesn't just stimulate collagen production; it stabilizes the collagen you have for a double-whammy of wrinkle reduction. Think about collagen like the elastic in your favorite pair of perfectly supportive stretchy jeans or yoga pants, says Julia T. Hunter, M.D., founder of Wholistic Dermatology in Beverly Hills. "If you don't have vitamin C, your collagen can't cross-link to lift and tighten skin."
In fact, vitamin C can help almost any skin issue you can think up, from dark spots and discoloration to combating rosacea and acne to wrinkles and sagging. "It's the No. 1 anti-aging thing you can do on the surface of your skin, and the younger you start, the better," says Dr. Hunter.
The one downside: Vitamin C is notoriously unstable.
So what's the catch? Yes, on paper vitamin C for skin is the total package. But just like there's no perfect Prince Charming, vitamin C has its flaws too.
"Because vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin, if vitamin C is hydrated in a cream, liquid, or vitamin C serum, it starts oxidizing and losing its chemical power," says Dr. Hunter. Not only do products lose potency as soon as they're exposed to air, heat, light, and water—just think of how fast a sliced apple turns brown—vitamin C can be difficult to deliver into the dermis, which makes turning vitamin C into a serum or mask extra tricky.
To combat the whole stability and permeability thing, vitamin C comes in many derivatives, including L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. And then there are the products themselves, everything from serums to creams to powders. Weighing through all the options can feel like deep diving into online dating. But we're here to help.
6 tips for finding a high-quality vitamin C skin care product + how to use it.
While it might feel like you need a chemistry degree to cut through the clutter, we narrowed it down to the top six things you need to know when picking, storing, and using vitamin C for your face to get the most benefit for your buck:
1. Look for straight L-ascorbic acid (LAA) in serums.
L-ascorbic acid is the most active form of vitamin C (other forms must be converted into L-ascorbic acid before the body can use it), and the most proven to work. But note that more vitamin C is not better. Research has found 10 to 20% concentrations the most effective. "Small amounts are usually all that's needed and best to use on clean skin before other products," adds Dr. Tanzi. Downside: The pH of the LAA needs to be acidic (3.0 to 3.5) to penetrate the skin, which can cause irritation in some people. To help avoid irritation, it's best to avoid using products with other acidic ingredients (e.g., alpha-hydroxy acids like lactic acid and glycolic acid) at the same time. And don't necessarily start with the strongest serum; it's fine to start at a lower concentration and work your way up.
2. Packaging makes a difference.
Vitamin C can break down in UV light and lessen its potency. Make sure the packaging is sealed and bottled in opaque squeeze tubes or pump bottles, or at the very least a dark amber bottle. Store in a cool, dry place. Downside: If the product turns yellow-brown or smells off, it could mean the vitamin C has oxidized and lost its potency.
3. Vitamin C powder is inexpensive, easy, and doesn't degrade.
One solution to vitamin C's instability problem is powdered vitamin C. It's more stable and therefore more potent than liquid versions. Simply mix a pinch of powder into your favorite moisturizer, serum, face oil, or sunscreen. Products can range from The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder ($15) to Skin Therapy Maximal Strength Vitamin C Plus ($78). "The powder should feel like powdered sugar, not table sugar, otherwise it's hard to dissolve," says Dr. Hunter. Downside: Because most powders are made of L-ascorbic acid, you need the right pH to penetrate, which can be tricky when you're acting as your own chemist. Mixing with most facial moisturizers should bring it into the right range, as long as you don't combine it with already acidic ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids. And even though many dermatologists are on board with vitamin C powder, there are no lab tests proving its effectiveness.
4. Antioxidants can increase vitamin C's potency.
Vitamin C works on its own, but pairing it with other antioxidants can boost its potency. "Certain antioxidants are synergistic," says Dr. Hunter. "They strengthen one another, regenerate one another, and last longer in the body, so they're more available in the skin." One study found that vitamin E and ferulic acid increase vitamin C's effectiveness eight-fold. Try SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic ($97) or Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum ($80). Other additives to look for: hyaluronic acid to smooth the skin and aloe to soothe. Downside: With more active ingredients, products can get pricey.
5. Apply vitamin C in the morning.
The general skin care rule is prevention by day and repair by night—yet vitamin C falls under both categories, so when is the best time to apply? "I like my antioxidants in the daytime because there is some evidence to suggest they can work with sunscreen to impart environmental protection," says Dr. Tanzi. Apply in the morning and think of your vitamin C as an extra layer of sun protection.
6. Keep an eye out for new technology...and old.
New forms of vitamin C are hitting the market—oil soluble, encapsulated, ampoules, even dual-chambered bottles that mix it up fresh for you. Research is coming in and showing promise. Of course, you could also go old-school and cut a fresh lemon and rub it on the surface of the skin, suggests Dr. Hunter: "You'll get a little vitamin C, and the lemon's acidity acts as a chemical exfoliation to melt off the dead skin."
Vitamin C from food and supplements is important for skin health, too.
Your body can't make its own vitamin C or store it. That means you need vitamin C from outside sources. The good news is that if you regularly eat fruits and vegetables—think leafy greens, citrus fruits, strawberries, red peppers, Brussels sprouts—you're getting it in your diet, which research shows not only benefits the body, from helping to fend off many things, from cancer to the common cold, it benefits the skin. According to a study published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, higher vitamin C intake is associated with less wrinkled skin.
Not that diet alone is the answer. "People should take it internally and put it on the surface of their skin," says Dr. Hunter, who recommends putting it on your skin every morning as well as taking a high-dose daily supplement. "Start out with 1,000 mg vitamin C a day and gradually increase to 1,000 mg twice a day, although dial it down if you experience cramping or diarrhea," she says. Other experts say to cap vitamin C supplements at 250 mg a day, noting that because it's a water-soluble vitamin, you're just peeing out the excess. As always, if you have questions about incorporating a new supplement into your routine, consult your doctor first.
Ready to learn more about how to unlock the power of food to heal your body, prevent disease & achieve optimal health? Register now for our FREE Functional Nutrition Webinar with Kelly LeVeque.