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How To Prevent & Treat Dark Spots, According To Research
UV exposure is the most common trigger for dark spots (that's why they're often called sun spots as a nickname). The UV radiation triggers inflammation in the skin, which sets off a reaction in the melanocytes, the skin's pigment-producing cells.
These pigment-producers then overproduce in certain areas, creating dark spots.
Now that I've covered how it happens, I want to spend the rest of this article explaining how to make sure it doesn't. Because rest assured: Dark spots are 100% avoidable and treatable.
"Textural aging—like wrinkles and fine lines—is something you expect when people age, but pigment is optional," celebrity esthetician Candace Marino (known as "The L.A. Facialist") told me on my podcast. "If you protect and care for your skin, you don't have to have the discoloration."
Here, exactly how to do that.
Practice safe sun care
The easiest treatment for dark spots is to avoid sun damage in the first place. Sunscreen is an excellent place to start. Here's the derm-recommended protocol for sun protection:
- The best sunscreen is one that you'll wear daily—so find an option and be consistent.
- Apply every morning 30 minutes prior to sun exposure to allow the sunscreen to set.
- Use a quarter of a teaspoon for the face (which comes out to be about two fingers' length of sunscreen) and an ounce for the full body.
- Reapply every two hours when exposed to the sun (yes, this includes sun exposure through windows). And always reapply immediately after getting wet.
- To better protect from dark spots, use a tinted mineral sunscreen. Tinted sunscreens block visible light1 (which can cause dark spots), and zinc oxide can provide broader protection against both UVB and UVA.
But sun care extends far beyond SPF. It's also about how you spend your time in the sun. Wear protective clothing and accessories, such as UPF fabrics, hats, umbrellas, and sunglasses when outdoors.
Avoid peak sun hours to avoid the worst of the direct light. And never use SPF application as an excuse to sunbathe for sport.
On the market for a new sunscreen? Check out our favorite SPF formulas here.
Use antioxidant serums
Antioxidants help stop the cascade of free radical damage triggered by UV radiation. Free radicals play a pivotal role in the formation of dark spots2, so by neutralizing these molecules, you can help avoid dark spots altogether.
Essentially they effectively stop the chain reaction that goes from sun damage to dark spots.
Not only do they halt the free radical rampage of damage, but they can also improve sunscreen efficacy. In fact, research has shown that using antioxidants alongside SPF can help improve the protective qualities of sunscreen3, especially of UVA and visible light.
This is notable, as UVA and visible light are the two forms of sun damage that lead to dark spots and premature aging.
Increase your internal antioxidant intake
Antioxidants can help internally as well. Research shows that ingesting certain nutrients can bolster your skin's ability to deal with UV radiation.
More specifically, there are certain antioxidants that have been shown via research to have photoprotective qualities by both absorbing UV rays and helping neutralize UV-induced free radical damage4:
- Astaxanthin is able to enhance skin photoprotection from UV rays and promote a healthy inflammatory response. Studies show astaxanthin delays the impacts of UV exposure5, which can mean fewer burns and less damage.
- Beta-carotene has been shown to support skin by absorbing UV rays6.
- Resveratrol has also been shown to help manage UV-induced skin damage7.
Utilize ingredients that control pigment overproduction
Certain ingredients have been shown to help manage the pigment production process so that melanocytes aren't overproducing in certain areas, resulting in dark spots.
These ingredients are often found in dark spot-correcting serums and creams, and they can be very beneficial for those dealing with sun spots, melasma, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
There are several effective options, but a few ingredients to keep an eye out for are:
- Kojic acid: Kojic acid inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for the overproduction of pigment. Research notes that the ingredient has the ability to brighten skin and fade dark spots8.
- Licorice root: This natural ingredient helps limit melanin overproduction9, resulting in a more even complexion.
- Niacinamide: Along with being an antioxidant, it can help with hyperpigmentation. As this study demonstrates, niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer10, resulting in brighter skin and reduced appearance of dark spots after four weeks of consistent use.
- Arbutin (or alpha arbutin): This is a natural version of hydroquinone, without all the side effects. Research indicates that it's able to lighten hyperpigmentation11 by acting as a tyrosinase inhibitor.
- Tranexamic acid: This ingredient has been shown to slow melanin synthesis12 by stopping the pathway that leads to overproduction.
We did the hard work for you: Here are the 16 best dark spot correcting treatments—vetted and tested by experts.
Exfoliate gently
Exfoliation is the process of removing the top layers of the stratum corneum, which is made up of dead skin cells. This can help reveal brighter, softer skin underneath. However, it's very important to not overdo it—these layers of dead skin cells serve a very important purpose as a shield and buffer against environmental stressors.
It's also important to note that while exfoliation doesn't stop dark spots from forming, it can help fade existing spots and even out overall tone. So exfoliation should be paired with other preventive steps (such as SPF and antioxidants) to help avoid dark spots altogether.
Opt for chemical exfoliators alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs) in a strength your skin is able to tolerate. For those with more sensitive skin, mandelic or lactic acids are the way to go.
Average to mature skin can likely tolerate a bit more oomph, so opt for glycolic acid—which has the added benefit of boosting collagen production13. For oil-slick or acne-prone skin, salicylic acid can help manage sebum production as well.
Incorporate retinol
Retinol is the wunderkind of skin concerns: It can upregulate the collagen production process, speed up skin cell turnover, reduce excess oil production, manage acne, and yes, even help fade dark spots.
As we age, our skin life cycle slows down—so the surface isn't overturned as often. This can result in dark spots sticking around longer, accumulating more, and appearing more severe. Retinol's ability to brighten dark spots and even tone14 is largely thanks to the fact that it speeds up cell turnover.
Related read: The 11 best tips for using retinol we've ever received
Invest in LED masks
Like many skin concerns, inflammation plays a big role in dark spot development. That's why tools that manage the inflammatory response can be a helpful treatment.
Red light and infrared therapy have also been shown to reduce inflammation in the body15. As a downstream effect of this, research also notes that LED light therapy improves skin tone16 and decreases dullness (which can likely be attributed to a reduction of inflammation).
Invest in these: Here are the 5 best LED face masks—editor tested.
Visit a professional
And of course, visiting a professional is always a worthwhile endeavor if you have access to and can afford it. Estheticians and dermatologists have a host of tools that can help fade dark spots quickly and effectively, from lasers to microdermabrasion to chemical peels.
But the right one for you will depend on a few factors, including the cause of your dark spots, skin type, and tone—so consult with a professional for your right course of action,
The takeaway
It's dark spot season. But the good news is that with the right preventive steps, pigmentation and discoloration are entirely avoidable (SPF being the most important). And if you have existing dark spots that need addressing, chemical exfoliators, retinol, and professional interventions are always there.
16 Sources
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32335182/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3299230/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35587114/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6098906/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6073124/
- https://academic.oup.com/ajcn/article/96/5/1179S/4577133
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18221451
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3468271/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3663177/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8301119/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4235096/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7891644/
- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31524348/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5523874/
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3926176/
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