Here's What No One Tells You About Collagen Production (But We Will)

Here’s the hard truth about collagen production: The best way to keep your skin firm, lifted, and healthy is to have a consistent, well-rounded skin care routine that starts from the ground up. What do I mean by this? Well you can’t just “boost” collagen production on a whim. Collagen production is only optimized if you’re not doing the daily work by feeding your body amino acids and keeping a protective and proactive skin care routine. 

Collagen and elastin are made up of amino acids, which are aptly dubbed “the building blocks of protein.” So when we talk about supplying the body with the appropriate tools it needs to build collagen and elastin, one of the most important for skin aging is protein. "You need to give your body the raw materials to regenerate,” says board-certified holistic nutritionist Jennifer Hanway. 

Dermatologists agree, too. “A sufficient amount of protein as part of a healthy diet is essential to support the body's ability to synthesize proteins of all types, including those in the skin," board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., told mbg about protein and the skin. 

Finally, we can look to research to confirm why protein intake is so important for the skin. While there isn’t a lot of human-focused research on the subject (just given the complexities of those studies and ethical implications), animal studies have shown that diets low on protein are linked to collagen decline as well as skin barrier damage. One study found that following a protein-free diet for eight days caused a “dramatic decrease1 in both types I and III collagen” in rats. Another showed that protein-lacking diets triggered atopic dermatitis and skin barrier issues in upwards of 89% of rat subjects2.

The Recommended Dietary Allowance (RDA) of protein is 0.8 gram per kilogram of body weight3 per day. This is the minimum amount of protein a sedentary person needs to meet their nutritional requirements and avoid a nitrogen imbalance, so it's conservative. Most active women will want to consume 1.2 to 2.0 grams of protein per kilogram of body weight. Most of the experts we regularly work with suggest aiming for a threshold of around 100 grams of protein per day. 

For example, retinol is one of the most recommended ingredients for collagen production. For good reason! Retinol binds to receptors in the skin that upregulate collagen production. For example, this was seen in a study where retinol treatment stimulated collagen production4 in mature skin, helping decrease the appearance of wrinkling. Check out our favorite retinol serums here. 

Vitamin C is another often recommended ingredient, as the antioxidant plays a vital role in the collagen synthesis process. Not only that, but in its role as an antioxidant it can neutralize free radicals, which cause collagen breakdown.  

If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance you’re looking to further optimize your collagen production. This is where treatments come in. There are a lot of in-office treatments that can improve collagen production through your body’s own regenerative systems. 

For example, Sofwave is a skin treatment that uses ultrasound technology to stimulate collagen and elastin production. It uses seven parallel beams that bypass the epidermis (the surface of the skin) and enter the mid-dermal layer. This is where collagen and elastin are made, so it more effectively supports their production compared to other ultrasound treatments of the past. A fair warning: It’s very expensive, and very painful. But it has incredible, lasting results. 

Another new treatment on the market is Cellstory, a liquid microneedling protocol that delivers skin-plumping actives like growth factors, peptides, and amino acids to stimulate collagen. 

You can also look to lasers (such as CO2 or Fraxel) for their collagen enhancing properties. Lasers are a mainstay in the beauty industry, and have a good history of use and reputation. 

I have to highlight one of the most important steps in collagen production and protection: Sunscreen and sun care generally. Sun damage accounts for up to 80% of all skin aging—and is one of the biggest drivers of collagen breakdown.