How To Target "Zombie Cells," The Main Culprit For Skin Aging

Let's share some skin care horror stories, shall we? Sunbathing for sport and without sunscreen. Shudder. Exfoliating then forgetting to follow up with moisturizer. Chilling. Falling asleep without removing makeup. A nightmare! 

Granted, these situations are all pretty common—disturbing, yes, but they're not exactly urban legends. Recently, though, I've been hearing accounts of senescent cells (also called "zombie cells") whispered between beauty editors, and the apocalyptic way they take control of your skin barrier, create inflammation, and lead to accelerated aging. The spookiest tale of all. 

"Senescent cells are cells that have stopped dividing and are no longer functioning properly," says board-certified dermatologist Julie Russak, M.D., FAAD. They're technically still alive—they resist cell death, so they don't naturally shed—hence why they're called "zombie cells." 

There's a reason beauty fans flock to ingredients that promote cellular renewal: Young, spry cells reflect more light and generally perform better. So imagine a buildup of zombie cells living rent-free in your skin—your complexion might appear dull, dry, and creepy1. 

"Since senescent cells have reduced cellular renewal, it can lead to a reduction in collagen and elastin as well as a weaker skin barrier," explains Garshick. "Together these changes can lead to dryness, fine lines, wrinkles, and dullness of the skin." 

What's more, "Senescent cells secrete pro-aging factors that can drive healthy neighboring cells to age faster and become senescent as well," says Russak. Just like the living dead, these zombies corrupt the healthy cells around them, turning them into zombie cells, too. Spooky, no? 

Defend against the zombies, derms say, and you can counteract skin aging and improve overall skin health. 

However! "Not all senescent cells are harmful 'zombie' cells that should be eliminated to prevent age-related diseases," says Russak. See, research shows that some senescent cells can actually help heal damaged tissues2. "Senescent cells can be beneficial in the short term by adjusting the plasticity of neighboring cells, but their prolonged presence can be deleterious," Russak explains further. "Therefore, it is important to develop strategies to eliminate senescent cells selectively." 

In terms of selecting specific zombies to destroy, the science isn't quite there yet. We do have some "senolytic drugs3" that can target zombie cells as a whole, but again, clearing them all may not be the best approach. 

Since oxidative stress can cause those zombie cells to pile up, shielding your skin from free radical damage may prevent the process. Protect the skin from environmental aggressors (UV rays, smoke, pollution, etc.) by wearing sunscreen, cleansing your skin daily, and ingesting and applying antioxidants. 

In addition to classic antioxidants that shield your skin from environmental damage (vitamin C, vitamin E, and the like), Russak mentions a few targeted compounds that may have senolytic effects4—namely, fisetin and quercetin. 

"These compounds have been shown to selectively eliminate senescent cells in vitro and in vivo. However, more research is needed to determine their efficacy and safety in humans," she explains. The good news is that it's never a bad idea to consume and apply more antioxidants, and quercetin-infused skin care products are specifically becoming more popular as of late. 

Finally, to ensure your skin cells perform at their best, eliminate dead skin cells so younger, healthier cells have their space to shine. "Ingredients that help to regulate cellular renewal, such as retinoids, and those that help to eliminate dead skin cells, such as exfoliating acids, can be helpful for zombie cells," notes Garshick. 

They might not clear the zombie cells in particular (again, they're technically still alive, so they won't shed), but paving the way for new, healthy cells can make your skin more resilient to the living dead, so to speak.