A Licensed Esthetician's Top 3 Tips To "Awaken" Dull, Sleepy Skin

It's spring! Temperatures are *finally* creeping up, sunsets stretch longer, and our naked trees reclaim their splashes of color. My skin, however, is not so ready for the shift. I'm certainly not complaining about an early spring (thank you, Punxsutawney Phil), but my complexion needs a little more help "waking up," if you will. 

"Cleansers are so underrated but honestly can make a world of difference," declares De Los Santos. I couldn't agree more—after all, a clean canvas is necessary for all that follows. You can have the best serums, tonics, and creams money can buy, but if your cleanser isn't effectively removing daily grime, all those targeted actives and luxe hydrators won't do their jobs. 

That all being said: Face washing mistakes can totally make your skin appear dull. According to De Los Santos, the most common error people make is not spending enough time at the sink. "Most people cleanse for 10 seconds or less (if at all), and that can lead to breakouts, congestion, fine lines, etc.," she says, as it's not long enough to actually dissolve daily buildup. "Cleanse regularly and for at least one full minute each time."

During winter, as you face frigid temperatures and skin-chapping winds, you might have been able to get away with a splash of water in the morning in lieu of a full wash. That's fine!

While you should still use a proper cleanser at night, a water-only morning rinse "can help balance the skin by keeping the natural lipids produced in the night on the surface of the skin, which then acts as a natural lubricant and protective film for what we call the acid mantle," De Los Santos explains. (You can read all about your skin's protective acid mantle here.) 

For brighter skin, exfoliation is key. "This is one of the primary steps someone can incorporate into their skin routine to quickly notice a visible change," De Los Santos says. "By removing dull skin and targeting the epidermis, you can essentially trick your skin into behaving younger." It's true! By promoting cell turnover, you're removing old, dead cells and helping younger cells bubble up to the surface; these new, spry cells can better produce collagen. 

You don't want to go overboard here, but if you want immediate gratification, a physical exfoliator is up your alley. These include gentle granules that manually lift dead skin and literally pave the way for a brighter glow. Chemical exfoliants, on the other hand, break down the bonds between the skin and dead cells to help them shed naturally, which takes a couple of days. 

Exfoliation will help brighten your complexion, but it's not the only route to take for radiant skin. Ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and antioxidant-rich botanicals also help impart an overall glow and fade dark spots, if hyperpigmentation is a concern. Skin-barrier supporting hydrators (like ceramides, glycerin, and so on) also brighten the complexion since dry skin is a recipe for dullness. 

All that to say: There's no one magic elixir for brighter skin. However, you can find some particular ingredients marketed as "skin brighteners"; De Los Santos recommends avoiding those that have the potential to bleach the skin (most notably, the controversial hydroquinone). "The skin is a very complex but fragile organ," she says. "If you bleach, you can accidentally damage the melanocyte, which is responsible for producing pigment, and in turn can cause hypopigmentation." 

Let's review: To enter spring with gleaming skin, you'll want to use the right cleanser (and for the right amount of time), try a gentle physical exfoliator for an immediate glow, and make sure your targeted brighteners don't ever bleach the skin.