Enzymes vs. Acids: Which Exfoliant Should You Use? We Asked The Experts

If you're on a personal quest for glowing, bouncy skin (let's be honest—who isn't?), you likely know that regular exfoliation is key. But just when you think you've gotten the regimen down to a T—studying up on scrubs, peels, and masks aplenty—another nuance makes its way to the skin care conversation. Here's one that trips up even the most well-versed of beauty fans: enzymes versus acids. 

"Imagine that there is glue between skin cells, keeping them together," explains double-board certified surgeon Melynda Barnes, M.D., clinical director for Rory—an online health care service that creates customizable skin care formulas. "Enzymes break down that glue (the keratin protein), which allows the dead skin cells to be removed or exfoliated from the skin." Acids, on the other hand, "work by triggering cell death in older skin cells and promoting new skin cells to grow. This results in older cells sloughing off and newer skin cells taking their place." 

That's not to say only sensitive-skinned folk can benefit from enzymes; in fact, Barnes notes that enzymes and acids are frequently used together in products for a dual-approach exfoliation. Similarly, Guidi mentions enzymes work for most skin types, especially acne-prone, oily, and combination skin. 

That said, you may have to play around with specific acids to find one that suits your skin care needs. Regardless, Guidi mentions specific concerns like hyperpigmentation, sun damage, and active acne can benefit from that forced cell turnover; however, the process can be irritating for those with super-sensitive skin. If acids are too stripping for your taste, enzymes might be more your style. 

Enzymes and acids, while both effectively exfoliate your skin, have slight nuances to keep in mind. Essentially: Enzymes do the work on the surface and dissolve dead skin, while acids slip deep into the pores to turn over cells. That said, enzymes lend gentle exfoliation perfect for skin that falls more on the sensitive side—whereas acids are fit for those with more targeted concerns, like hyperpigmentation or congested skin. Whether you opt for an exfoliating cleanser, serum, or mask—well, that's up to you.