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Don't Invest In Retinol Alternatives Before Checking *This*, From A Dermatologist

Hannah Frye
Author:
April 18, 2024
Hannah Frye
Beauty & Health Editor
By Hannah Frye
Beauty & Health Editor
Hannah Frye is the Beauty & Health Editor at mindbodygreen. She has a B.S. in journalism and a minor in women’s, gender, and queer studies from California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo. Hannah has written across lifestyle sections including beauty, women’s health, mental health, sustainability, social media trends, and more. She previously worked for Almost 30, a top-rated health and wellness podcast. In her current role, Hannah reports on the latest beauty trends and innovations, women’s health research, brain health news, and plenty more.
Woman putting on serum
Image by Guille Faingold
April 18, 2024
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Every beauty professional has their nonnegotiable steps. In our series, Like a Pro, we tap experts for the top three techniques they absolutely swear by. Here, you'll hear from a variety of industry insiders on the fail-safe tricks they always keep in their back pockets. We're all about simplifying your beauty regimen wherever you can, and sometimes the best routines are as easy as one, two, three.

Collagen loss is a natural part of the privilege that is aging—but that doesn't mean all is lost for a plump complexion. In fact, there are a handful of steps you can take to spark collagen production in your skin, no matter your age. One tried-and-true method: retinol. Or, as the current beauty scape offers, a retinol alternative

The latter option can be confusing, given it's not always utilized properly in product marketing. To ensure you're well-educated on this booming skin care category, I tapped a dermatologist to deliver three basic need-to-knows. Let's dive in: 

1.

It's been clinically proven to reduce fine lines & wrinkles

"If an ingredient is able to achieve similar levels of wrinkle reduction comparable to retinol and prove that in a documented study, I would deem it a retinol alternative," explains board-certified dermatologist Sarvenaz Zand, M.D., FAAD.

The key here is to check for a clinical study—before and after photos are a huge plus. A true retinol alternative will improve fine lines and wrinkles but also help to even out skin tone and texture

Not every single retinol alternative will have clinical studies to back the efficacy (it's a pretty expensive endeavor, especially for small brands), but it's worth having that extra credential when possible. 

2.

Think beyond vitamin A 

Retinol is derived from vitamin A, so it makes sense to assume that ingredients with high concentrations of vitamin A (like rosehip oil or bakuchiol, for example) would be retinol alternatives—but that's not the only path to earn the title.

Another form worth noting is bio-retinoids like microalgae that mimic the structure and function of vitamin A without containing loads of the vitamin itself.

Zand refers to a new product from the brand Kinship called DreamWave as one worthwhile example of this cosmetic advancement. 

"Unlike bakuchiol and rosehip, whose molecular structures do not resemble vitamin A, Kinship's microalgae from Chlorella Vulgaris is nearly identical to the vitamin A molecule, signaling that it has the same benefits as retinol yet without the potential irritation retinol can cause for sensitive skin," she explains. 

3.

Know who it's best for (and who should use the real thing)

Before you commit to the alternative path, you should know who it's best for.

Zand recommends retinol alternatives for individuals with sensitive skin, rosacea, and those experiencing perimenopause, as they often have reactive skin that cannot tolerate traditional retinol products.

However, for those who can use retinol without negative side effects, Zand recommends sticking to it. In fact, she even recommends looking into stronger retinoids like prescription-grade tretinoin if your over-the-counter products haven't delivered the results you're looking for. 

Zand wraps up by saying, "Retinoids are the most proven and documented class of age-defying ingredients, and I think they should be a part of everyone's skin care regimen. For people with sensitive skin, using a retinol alternative is key to achieving similar results."

Sold on this approach? Shop our top picks below.

The takeaway

Retinol alternatives offer promising options for boosting collagen and improving skin texture, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.

However, you should make sure the product you choose is backed by clinical or consumer studies and be open to the idea of new and innovative bio-retinoids.

Finally, remember that traditional retinol is an evidence-backed ingredient worthwhile for those who can tolerate it. Here, a deeper dive into retinol benefits.

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