Do Retinol Alternatives, Uh, Work? Everything You Need To Know

"Dupes" have officially taken over the beauty scene, though the trend goes way beyond a discounted foundation or drugstore sunscreen. Think slugging balms sans petroleum, squalane-infused stylers that mimic the look and feel of silicones, and today's topic: irritation-free retinol alternatives. 

Nothing against the vitamin A derivative, of course—it's still the darling of dermatology, lauded for restoring collagen and smoothing fine lines. But retinol typically brings some bemoaned side effects, like redness, dryness, or even a temporary worsening of acne (dubbed the "retinol purge"). 

Retinol is beloved for promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen production. And just like the name suggests, retinol alternatives can provide similar perks—without gripes like irritation, flaking, or redness. 

Yep, some botanicals have the power to fade dark spots, stimulate collagen production, and firm the skin. It's not just marketing jargon! "What's great about these 'phyto retinols' is that they offer the same results as retinol without the irritation associated with vitamin A derivatives," notes board-certified dermatologist Geeta Yadav, M.D., founder of FACET Dermatology. 

And it's high time we have these effective options. As the technology becomes more sophisticated, more and more innovations hit the market. And, trust, these recent options are very good.

Short answer? Anyone who cannot tolerate even the most gentle of OTC retinoids or simply wants to forgo the vitamin A derivative. 

"Those who have very reactive skin types or sensitive skin may not be able to tolerate retinol, but they will not have an issue with a retinol alternative ingredient," says Yadav. Those with sensitive skin or those who are pregnant may fare well with an alternative product—although we always recommend talking to your doctor before introducing any new ingredients to your routine, especially if you are pregnant. 

But because alt-retinols are so effective these days, some may choose to use them in lieu of a standard retinol product. I'm speaking from experience here: I used to be quite wary of retinol alternatives, as I always found them to be quite meh. If I didn't have hypersensitive skin or wasn't pregnant, what was the point?

But recently, I fell in love with alt-retinols since they're super easy to incorporate into my routine. I don't have to worry about the bemoaned "retinoid reaction," or mixing them with other topicals and rendering them ineffective (whereas traditional retinol is notoriously unstable). In fact, you can even use these products during the day with no side effects—more on that in just a moment.

The best part about alt-retinols is that they generally play nice with other ingredients, so you'll often find a cocktail of high-powered botanicals along with the alt-retinol player. And you likely don't have to worry as much about sensitizing your skin by layering on multiple actives. In fact, "they can be combined with other active ingredients for more potent treatment, as well as be used any time day or night," says Yadav. Yes, even AHAs and BHAs! 

You'll still want to follow the instructions on your specific product and see how your skin reacts (and that doesn't mean you can skip sunscreen during the day), but generally, Karp says you can use them with other exfoliating acids without irritation. 

"There is a chance, however, that the actives may decrease the potency of each other," As a general skin care rule: You don't want to layer on multiple potent serums in one routine. Additionally, "I would avoid using benzoyl peroxide with any of these products due to very likely irritation," Karp says. 

As for which alt-retinol to choose? Well, the good news is that there have never been more high-quality, effective options out there. There is no "better" or "worse" retinol alternative (bakuchiol doesn't trump rambutan, or vice versa); it's more about which active is most compatible with your skin type. "For example, pure rosehip oil is effective, but not everyone likes oily textures, Yadav explains.