How To Apply BB Cream Correctly: Makeup Artist Tips For An Effortless Blend
In my humble makeup opinion, there is no base product as versatile as a BB cream (or CC cream, but that's another story entirely). These K-beauty stalwarts tend to have skin care properties jammed into the formula—the "BB" stands for "blemish balm" or "beauty balm," to reflect its double-duty status.
Given the multifaceted nature, it can be confusing to know how to use these makeup-meets-skin-care hybrids: Should you use them in tandem with your skin care routine? Or simply treat them like skin-loving foundations? What if it has SPF?
Below, we tapped makeup artists for their tips.
How to pick the best BB cream for your goals.
Not all BB creams are created equal. First, they differ in consistency: You can find opaque, pigmented options, as well as lightweight veils that function similarly to a tinted moisturizer. Choose a formula based on how much coverage you want to have—be it a dewy, velvet, or natural-looking wash.
To dial up the dew even further, makeup artist Alexandra Compton, product development manager at clean beauty retailer Credo, suggests mixing your BB cream with your moisturizer or face oil. "It will change the finish from dewy to dewiest," she once told mbg.
Aside from the spectrum of coverage, you can also match a BB cream to your skin type: "Oilier complexions should ideally select an oil-free formula with a matte finish," says celebrity makeup artist Jillian Dempsey. (Try tarte's BB Tinted Treatment.) "For dry skin, choose a moisturizing formula." (Like this Lily Lolo option.) Acne-prone skin may want to look for mattifying options (as acne-prone skin tends to also be oily), as well as noncomedogenic formulas—here's a cult-favorite number from Dr.Jart+.
How to apply BB cream the correct way.
After prepping your skin (which we'll explain more in a bit), follow the below:
- Place dollops of BB cream on your face with your (clean!) fingers, wherever you'd like some coverage. Start with a small amount of product: "A little goes a long way," says Dempsey, especially if you use a thicker cream.
- Use a damp beauty sponge (we love makeup artist Jenny Patinkin's Pure Luxury Makeup Sponges) to buff and blend the product into your skin. "You can also use your fingers to apply and blend, but if you do, make sure your hands are clean and apply in circular motions for optimal coverage," Dempsey notes.
Can you apply BB cream with a brush or beauty blender?
As noted, a beauty blender (or beauty sponge, or makeup wedge, or whatever you like to call 'em) is your best bet for blended, even coverage. However, if your BB cream runs a little on the thicker side, Patinkin suggests applying the product with a brush first, then tapping a clean, damp beauty blender on top "to lift away any excess product and help set it in place."
Little bounces are all you'll need to diffuse the pigment—no need to drag or smudge the sponge across your skin.
What to know about using BB cream in your routine.
All your BB cream questions, answered.
Should I use it after moisturizer?
Absolutely! While BB creams can have skin care benefits (SPF, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants, to name a few), they shouldn't replace your skin care routine. Even if you combine a BB cream with moisturizer to thin out the consistency, you'll want to have a moisturized base before you start.
On that note, you'll want to apply a layer of sunscreen beforehand, even if your BB cream contains SPF. As board-certified dermatologist Angelo Landriscina, M.D., previously said regarding sunscreen-moisturizers, "The SPF of any product is based on using 2 milligrams per centimeter-squared on your skin, which is about half a teaspoon for the entire face." (Or about a nickel-size dollop, in case you need a visual.)
So to make sure you reach optimal protection, you'll need quite a lot of BB cream—and you might not necessarily want that much coverage, which is fine, but you should use a proper sunscreen underneath in that case.
As for how long you should wait in between steps, there's no specific timestamp, but both Dempsey and Patinkin recommend waiting a few beats before moving on to makeup. "A good rule of thumb is to wait until your moisturizer or SPF feels dry to the touch before applying," Dempsey notes.
What should I apply after?
After your BB cream is blended and buffed, move on with the rest of your routine—concealer, blush, highlighter, what have you. Or if you're just using BB cream as a hydrated base for a barefaced look, feel free to leave it at that.
Do you need to set BB cream?
The thing is, you don't have to do anything when it comes to makeup—do what makes you feel more comfortable and beautiful. So, no, you don't need to set BB cream with a powder: In fact, most BB creams contain priming agents in the formula, says Dempsey, so powder isn't totally necessary in terms of long-wear. "The cream is likely effective enough to keep your makeup in place," she notes.
However, a powder can help tone down the shine, if that's what you're after. "BB creams often give a very hydrated look," says Patinkin. If it ends up too dewy for your liking, she recommends pressing a loose setting powder onto shinier areas with a beauty sponge—typically, that's the forehead, chin, and around the nose. Or you can skip the powder altogether and use a damp sponge with a tissue, like this makeup artist's blotting hack.
How can you use concealer with it?
"BB Cream should be treated the same as foundation," says Patinkin. "Apply it first, and then touch up where you need to with concealer."
For instance, if you're dealing with dark under-eye circles, discoloration around the nose, or blemishes, those concerns might poke through a lightweight BB cream. Keep the look breathable and avoid piling on product by applying concealer only on those targeted areas: Lightly tap the concealer into place with a sponge or the tip of your finger, says Dempsey, or check out these coveted tips to apply concealer for dark circles, blemishes, and hyperpigmentation.
BB creams are versatile little numbers. Depending on the formula and how you apply, you can nail a full-coverage look or natural, "no-makeup makeup" beat. For dewy, pillowy-looking skin, these tips above will serve you well.
Jamie Schneider is the Beauty & Wellness Editor at mindbodygreen. She has a B.A. in Organizational Studies and English from the University of Michigan, and her work has appeared in Coveteur, The Chill Times, and Wyld Skincare. In her role at mbg, she reports on everything from the top beauty industry trends, to the gut-skin connection and the microbiome, to the latest expert makeup hacks. She currently lives in New York City.