Microblading vs. Microshading: Which One Should You Choose?

If you look back on photos from 10 years ago, you probably filled in your brows a bit differently than you do now, thanks to the ever-changing brow trends (and maybe your evolving makeup skills as well). But if you've truly found your go-to look and you go through the process of making them look fuller day in and day out, you may be craving something more permanent.

First up, we have microblading—here to give you the rundown is legendary brow expert Joey Healy. Microblading involves, "Small, hairlike strokes, but very fine tattooed lines that can be masqueraded as brow hair," he explains.

"Most people use an electric tool that is handheld and has a small needle; it's used to make very small cuts," he explains. On occasion, manual tools can be used, but most often electric tools are preferred.

Microblading is a common practice used for anyone who wants fuller brows—whether someone lost their brows after chemotherapy, overworked them over the years (hint: post-'90s brow era), or wants a baseline to make the fill-in process a bit more straightforward.

The finished look is, simply put, a filled-in brow—just as you may have done yourself. The benefits? "It's a quick solution to waking up and not filling in your brows," Healy says.

Different approaches will deliver different finished looks, one of which is micro feathering—where a manual tool is used. "This is more of a marketing term," Healy says. "It's essentially microblading with a lighter touch," he continues.

Some techniques like the Nano Brow by New York City–based brow expert Karolina Bula produce a look that resembles a natural full brow.

Microblading can cost anywhere from $500 to $2,000, depending on where you go, the look you're going for, and where you're located. While the price is steep—so is that of brow products. And if you dread doing your brows day in and day out, it may be worth it.

Most often microblading is done in two sessions spaced about eight weeks apart—though on occasion a third session is needed. "A first pass will generally include the entire brow design, but you may lose a few strokes during the initial healing process," brow expert Michele Holmes tells mbg.

Microshading is often referred to as ombre brows or powder brows. "You're using little dots that, depending on how close together and concentrated they are, influence the depth of color that is perceived," Healy explains.

This will make your brow look like powder has been placed overtop since you're not seeing the fine lines that come with microblading. Some people prefer this softer look to one that is consistent with hairlike strokes—so it's all about personal preference.

Depending on your goals and the pro's practice, it may take up to two sessions but generally not more than that.

So now you know the basics, but which one is best for you? Well, take a look at your brows on their best day—aka when your brow makeup is on point.

If you filled in your brows with a pen or brow pencil to create hairlike strokes and didn't use any sort of powder or soft pencil, then microblading may be for you. Also, if you're working to fill in large gaps of hair or create a fully new brow from the start, then this method may be the best fit.

What's more, if you still want to fill in your brows a bit each day to suit your fancy, then microblading can create a base structure and outline for you to play around with.

If you tend to use a soft powder to fill in your brows with a powder or soft pencil, then microshading will mimic that look. If you have oily or sensitive skin, then this one is a better fit for you as well.

Plus, if you're looking to completely abandon doing your brows after this, then microshading is the way to go. In the same vein, microshading tends to last longer, which means less frequent touch-ups.

If you picked out a few pros and cons from each method and find yourself stuck, we have good news—you can do both. Microblading can provide structure and those sought-after hairlike strokes, while microshading can come in to fill the rest and soften up the look.

As we mentioned earlier, finding a pro you trust is essential. "These techniques are still relatively new and sadly under-regulated in this country," Holmes says.

So don't skip this step—do your research, ask around, look up photos on Instagram or online, and have a consultation before committing. While this may seem like a pesky list of to-do's, it's worth it to feel confident in your brows and make it worth your money.

Microblading and microshading are not for everyone. Because you are creating injury to the skin, those with inflammatory skin conditions like acne, eczema, psoriasis, etc., should not attempt. If you're unsure if these treatments are safe for your skin, consult your dermatologist beforehand.

As your expert will tell you, the look of your brows the day of treatment is not the final result. They will appear more pigmented and bold the first week or two, so don't stress too much if that's the case.

If you're currently in love with your brows, then you may want to proceed with caution. "Sometimes it can be damaging to your existing brows," Healy notes. So rather than opt for microblading or microshading, work with a brow specialist to learn more about shaping your brows with tweezing and how to fill them in to really make them pop, and pick up a brow serum to increase fullness.

That being said, your brows are on your face and directly contribute to your physical appearance and thus can impact your self-esteem. If your brows make you feel insecure and these treatments may help—go for it.

"For some people, microblading and shading can be a truly life-altering gift," Holmes says. "I have some clients with alopecia who have greatly benefited from these treatments because they simply can't grow brow hair," she continues.

So to sum up, microblading and microshading might not be ideal for your brows—but that's OK. If this treatment will make you feel more confident and contribute to your overall happiness, then more power to you.