Can You Exfoliate If You're Already Using A Retinol? Derms Explain 

Both retinoids and exfoliants (like AHAs and BHAs) are very potent actives—and when used incorrectly, they can cause major damage to the skin barrier. But retinoids do function differently than AHAs and BHAs, as they promote faster skin-cell turnover rather than exfoliating off the surface layer of excess dead skin cells, the latter of which can feel more immediate and gratifying. 

Because of this, many are tempted to try both—they're doing different things for your skin, no?

Short answer: Assuming your skin has fully adjusted to the retinoid (no itching, peeling, or burning), you can fold in a mild exfoliator. But if you've just embarked on your retinoid journey, you might want to hold off and stick to one active as you ease into regular use. "Otherwise, you may see dry, red, flaky, irritated skin develop in the next day or two," notes board-certified dermatologist Flora Kim, M.D., FAAD. 

"With exfoliation, there is such a thing as too much," Kim notes. "If you use too harsh of an exfoliant and too often, you will strip, irritate, and damage your skin instead of helping it." 

On the night(s) you do exfoliate, stow the retinoid. You don't want to use an AHA or BHA product and then apply a retinoid right after (be it prescription-strength or OTC)—not only can it lead to irritation, but the ingredients may also inactivate each other. 

"Antioxidants should never be combined with acids or acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide, which can make them ineffective," board-certified dermatologist Jennifer Herrmann, M.D., tells us about layering serums. Considering retinoids are vitamin A derivatives, you don’t want to mix them with other harsh actives and potentially mess with their efficacy. 

Exfoliation does offer a gratifying, highlighter-like glow, yes, but your skin doesn't need to shed skin cells that consistently. In fact, your skin is supposed to have dead skin cells—they help lock in moisture and keep the precious water from seeping out. It's the buildup of those skin cells that can cause dullness, clogged pores, and the like. You don't want to slough them off over and over again before they're ready to go—immediate glow be damned. 

That said, you might want to take some recovery time, even more so if you do incorporate a retinoid and exfoliator into your routine. "It's like when you go to the gym, you need days to recover. The same thing holds true for the skin barrier and the microbiome," says board-certified dermatologist Whitney Bowe, M.D., on the mindbodygreen podcast. "You want to use a retinol? Go for it. You want to use an AHA, like glycolic acid? Go for it, but give yourself two nights off when you're just using nourishing, hydrating ingredients."