The Beauty Routine Makeup Artist Daniel Martin Has Been Loving As Of Late
Whether you're opting for a dewy, "no-makeup" look or a bold, glittering face beat, skin prep is everything. Ask any makeup artist, and they'll be quick to confirm: You can't achieve expert-level glam without a clean, freshly prepped canvas.
In fact: "I don't want to see makeup on the skin," he tells me. Now, this may sound a tad unusual from someone who has literally made makeup their profession, but according to Martin, the best looks are the ones where you can't tell you're wearing makeup at all—save for a sharp cat-eye or crimson lip.
It's a delicate dance, and it always starts with skin care. So here, find his must-have steps.
The tried-and-true: An OTC hydrocortisone gel
"I have sensitive skin. I have this thing called 'skin writing,' where if I scratch myself, it welts up and turns into a hive. [Editor's note: This is also called dermatographia1.] It's like this weird dermatitis situation, autoimmune thing. So there are certain things that I always have with me, and my tried-and-true would be Cortizone gel just because I always have these flare-ups.
"I actually keep it in my makeup kit. If someone has any redness or if they have a pimple, I'll use the Cortizone gel to treat the redness but also flatten it out. So that's my tried-and-true if I have a flare-up, a breakout, anything."
The surprise hit: A long-lasting moisturizer
"The Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair Cream. Because my skin is sensitive, I tend to use that at night, but then during the winter, I use it during the day. And I recently discovered that it works really well underneath makeup because it has this beautiful gel-cream texture. It works really well with a lot of the long-wear foundations that are out there right now."
Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair
The secret: Facial cupping
"I just discovered facial cupping. I've been really puffy lately because of my allergies, and a friend of mine was telling me about these little suction cups she [uses] for lymphatic drainage. I just got them last week.
"You definitely need an oil to move the cup, but it seems like it's been working. I want to give it more time, but that's my new discovery. I got it on Amazon—it had the highest ratings.
SanDine Face Cupping Set
The splurge: A multitasking skin device
"I received a TheraFACE PRO—oh my God, total splurge.
"They have this [percussive attachment] that I was using a lot for my puffiness. I love that one. There's the microcurrent one that's great, there's one that goes cold and hot… But the fact that you have this one device where you can change the heads is so perfect.
"At the end of the day, you want something that's going to be efficient for you. The challenge for me was getting used to always using it. You have to have it by the sink or somewhere where you know you're going to do it… I tend to use the percussive attachment a lot, just because I really love how it feels, and I feel like I see the difference. I should use the microcurrent [attachment], but that takes a little bit more time. Whereas I can just watch TV and thump away on my face."
Therabody TheraFace PRO
The steal: A fragrance-free face cream
"There's this amazing Korean moisturizer I found. There's niacinamide in it, centella asiatica…For any of my clients who have cystic acne or are really red, this moisturizer is incredible underneath makeup.
"It's an incredible moisturizer. [It's] fragrance-free, it's in a tube so it's easy to transport, and I have it in my kit all the time. So many of my clients love it because you feel like you get the hydration but you don't get the weight. Sometimes if you have a heavy moisturizer with your makeup, that's just one added situation to feel on your face."
A'PIEU Madecassoside 2X Cream
The red carpet routine
"I love using Joanna Czech's face roller with a full mask on. When I work with Michelle Yeoh, she always loves a mask—I'll do a mask on her, then I'll roll her and gua sha her, just so it's a nice, calming [experience] because her makeup takes me no time. I'd rather spend time on her skin care and making her feel comfortable, making her skin feel good, before I just slap everything on top. [I use] the 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond mask. That's my favorite from them.
"I have this formula that I've always done: Texture Tonic, essence, moisturizer, either The Liquid Silk Canvas Primer or The Silk Canvas Balm Primer, and then foundation. And my foundation is always water-based… That combination with the foundation is my go-to for red carpet for anybody. I need [the makeup] to last, and that does the trick for me. And it doesn't feel or look like makeup on the skin."
111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Lifting And Firming Face Mask
Joanna Czech The Facial Massager
Tatcha The Liquid Silk Canvas
What my clients recommend to me: Esthetician-led exfoliators
"Because I have such sensitive skin, Meghan knew that I can't use a lot on my face. And I think I was complaining to her about just how patchy my skin was—this was maybe six years ago—and she was like, 'Oh, you should try this mask Joanna Vargas has.' And it's amazing. It's gritty, but it's not a scrub. I used it, and I was just like, 'Oh my God.'
"Then my other client, Maggie Gyllenhaal, was seeing Joanna and was like, 'You just need to go get a facial with her.'"
Joanna Vargas Exfoliating Mask
The signature: Skin prep & "no makeup" makeup
"So many people discovered me because of Meghan's wedding. People are like, 'Oh, you're the king of 'no-makeup makeup.' I came from fashion, and no one wears makeup in fashion. Like shooting editorials and stuff like that, you don't really do heavy makeup. So I would say everyone knows me for that.
"For me, I don't want to see makeup on the skin. Once I get the skin to a good place, then the makeup is seamless. A lot of my foundations tend to be water-based, and I do a lot of layering with color just because I can control it. I tend to look at makeup on the face as an accessory.
"So if [clients] want to do a bold lip, I'll keep the eyes pretty subtle. I always try to find a focus and then build the makeup around it. The last thing I want is someone to look at one of my clients and be like, 'Oh, I can see their makeup.'"
Jamie Schneider is the Beauty Editor at mindbodygreen. She has a B.A. in Organizational Studies and English from the University of Michigan, and her work has appeared in Coveteur, The Chill Times, and more. In her role at mbg, she reports on everything from the top beauty industry trends, to the gut-skin connection and the microbiome, to the latest expert makeup hacks. She currently lives in Brooklyn, New York.