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The World's Foremost Expert On Skin Longevity Says This Is The First Sign Of Aging

Alexandra Engler
Author:
March 29, 2026
Alexandra Engler
Senior Beauty & Lifestyle Director
It's Not Crow's Feet Or Sun Spots — This Is The First Sign Of Aging Skin Says Top MD
Image by Jovana Stojanovic / iStock
March 29, 2026

Ask someone what the first signs of skin aging are, and you'll likely hear the usual suspects: crow's feet, forehead lines, maybe a sun spot or two. We've been conditioned to think of aging as something that shows up in the mirror—visible, measurable, and (ideally) treatable with the right serum.

But according to Saranya Wyles, M.D., Ph.D., director of the Regenerative Dermatology & Skin Longevity Laboratory at Mayo Clinic, we've been looking at this all wrong. During her conversation with mindbodygreen co-founder Jason Wachob at the 2026 Revitalize summit, she explained that the earliest sign is one you feel: Hydration loss. 

That subtle dryness you've been noticing? The way your skin doesn't quite bounce back the way it used to? You're not imagining it—and it's not just a random new annoyance.

This is the first sign of skin aging 

Here's the thing: Wrinkles and sagging don't just appear out of nowhere. They're the downstream result of changes that have been happening beneath the surface for years.

“The minute we start aging, our barrier, which is like a basket weave, slowly starts to open up. So that means, just at rest, you’re losing water a lot easier,” she says. 

Let’s get into why. Wyles uses a helpful analogy: "There's the epidermis, dermis, and the hypodermis. There are multiple different layers that go into how the skin changes."

The stratum corneum, the thin layer of dead skin cells that’s in the epidermis, is the outermost part and its job is to keep moisture in and environmental stressors out. But all that hard work takes its toll. 

Over time, the lipids that hold this “basket weave” structure together begin to break down and become less organized, making it easier for water to escape. This is where things start to accelerate. As water escapes more easily, the skin becomes drier and more fragile, which can further impair barrier function. Eventually, this leads to structural changes in the dermis, including collagen loss.

"So you actually start seeing a decline in your skin health and that collagen matrix early, at the age of 20," Wyles shared.

And while you may not see those deeper changes right away, your skin is already signaling that something is shifting.

What the research shows about moisture loss

Transepidermal water loss, or TEWL, is exactly what it sounds like: the process by which water evaporates from your skin into the environment. A healthy barrier keeps this loss to a minimum. But as we age, the barrier becomes less efficient at holding onto moisture.

Research supports this: One study1 found that older adults had significantly higher baseline TEWL rates compared to younger subjects. Even more telling was that when the barrier was disrupted, older skin took roughly twice as long to recover.

Other research shows that the ceramides in our stratum corneum—the lipids that help hold the barrier together—also shift with age2, moving toward shorter chain lengths that are associated with barrier function decline.

What does that mean for you? The dryness you're noticing isn't just cosmetic. It's a sign that your skin's protective function is starting to change.

Why this matters for your routine

If the first sign of skin aging is hydration loss—not wrinkles—then it follows that the first priority should be barrier support, not anti-wrinkle treatments.

This is actually good news. It means you don't have to wait until lines appear to start taking care of your skin in a meaningful way. And it shifts the conversation from correction (fixing what's already happened) to prevention (protecting what you've got).

As Wyles puts it: "So you start noticing drier, itchy skin. So pay attention to those, because that's your skin telling you it needs that barrier support."

Think of it this way: You wouldn't wait until your muscles have atrophied to start exercising. The same logic applies to your skin. Supporting your barrier function early—before the visible signs of aging appear—is one of the most proactive things you can do for long-term skin health.

“"So a lot of these changes can start earlier on, but don't be alarmed. There are things you can do,” she assures.

How to support your skin barrier now

Ready to put this into practice? The gist is pretty simple: Even starting in your early 20s, flood your skin with hydration, keep a consistent skin care practice (that includes SPF), avoid the urge to exfoliate your skin into oblivion, and prioritize eating a nutrient-dense diet, chock full of amino acids, healthy fats, and antioxidants. That’ll put you on a good path for glowing skin for years to come. 

But in case you’re looking for more specific advice, here’s a breakdown: :

Ingredients to look for:

  • Ceramides: These lipids are a key component of your skin barrier. Look for products that contain ceramides to help reinforce what your skin naturally produces.
  • Hyaluronic acid: A humectant that draws moisture into the skin and helps keep it there.
  • Fatty acids: Ingredients like linoleic acid and oleic acid help strengthen the barrier and reduce water loss.
  • Niacinamide: This B vitamin supports ceramide production and helps improve barrier function over time.
  • Colloidal oat: This plant-extract soothes irritated skin and has been shown to help improve barrier function. In fact, it’s often recommended for folks with severely compromised skin, such as atopic dermatitis. 

What to avoid:

  • Sun damage: UV radiation is one of the key drivers of collagen loss and barrier damage. Use a SPF daily, skip sunbathing, and be smart about your time outdoors by avoiding peak sunshine hours and wear UPF accessories. 
  • Over-exfoliation: I can speak from experience: exfoliating masks have an addictive quality. There’s just something so satisfying about the immediate smoothing and glowing effects. But be warned, too much exfoliation can strip the barrier and increase water loss. 
  • Harsh cleansers: Foaming cleansers that leave your skin feeling "squeaky clean" may be doing more harm than good—but for so long, we’ve been told these type of cleaners are the key to “purifying” the skin. Don’t believe the marketing. Opt for gentle, hydrating formulas instead.
  • Hot water: It feels nice, but hot water can strip your skin of its natural oils. Lukewarm is the way to go.

How to support it from the inside out:

  • Hydration: If you’re even mildly dehydrated, your skin will reflect it. Consistent fluid intake, along with electrolytes when needed, helps maintain overall cellular hydration.
  • Healthy fats: Omega-3 fatty acids—found in foods like salmon, walnuts, and flaxseeds—help support the lipid layer of the skin barrier, making it more resilient and better able to retain moisture.
  • Protein: Your skin relies on amino acids to build and repair collagen and structural proteins, so getting enough high-quality protein supports that ongoing regeneration process.
  • Antioxidants: A diet rich in colorful fruits and vegetables helps counteract oxidative stress from UV exposure and pollution—two major drivers of barrier damage over time.

The takeaway

That subtle dryness, tightness, or increased sensitivity? It’s your skin flagging that its barrier function is starting to shift. And the earlier you respond, the better positioned you are to maintain healthy, resilient skin long term. Instead of waiting for wrinkles to appear, think of barrier support as your foundation. Get that right, and everything else—from glow to elasticity—becomes much easier to maintain.