3 Things This Dermatologist Wants You To Know About Laser Hair Removal Before Starting

As in-office treatments become more mainstream and professional-grade tools have entered our very own bathrooms, the interest in high-tech devices has boomed. One area in particular has been on the rise: the laser hair removal market has been growing at a rate of just under 20% per year. The interest largely comes from at-home devices, improved professional technology, and (somewhat) lowering costs. 

But with any treatment, there are cautions. That's exactly what I chatted with board-certified dermatologist Tiffany Clay, M.D., about on a recent episode of Clean Beauty School. The episode itself was about hair removal broadly, but we spent a good deal of time on lasers in particular. 

As Clay notes, laser hair removal is very safe and well tolerated by many people. However, certain devices can cause issues for a small group of people. This is also why Clay recommends sticking to professional services if you are able. (Basically: Skip the at-home tools.) 

"So these devices are not delivering as much energy as a professional treatment would. And because they are emitting lower levels of energy, some of them can actually stimulate hair growth—so you may see a little bit more peach fuzz appearing in the area. That's the complete opposite of what we're trying to do," warns Clay. 

She goes on to further explain that "for some, the wavelengths may not be safe for a skin type. So I always say if you're using an at-home device, test a small hidden area first. Give it a few weeks, and then if you don't have any issues, then you can probably go ahead and treat a larger area."

People equate laser hair removal with permanent hair removal. This isn't always the case. To start, it may not work for all hair types. "It does not work if you have really light, white, or gray hairs," she says. "It does not work for these hair shades because the laser actually targets the pigment or the color that's in the hair in the removal process. That's how it works." Essentially, if your hair isn't dark enough for the laser to register the pigment, the laser won't have anything to target.