New Research Explores The Reason Behind "Leathery" Skin (+ What To Do About It)

If there's one thing the beauty industry knows to be true, it's that collagen plays an important role in the aging process. But when we talk about how collagen impacts the skin, it usually comes down to collagen loss rather than collagen structure. And of course age-related collagen loss is real. Starting at some point in early adulthood, folks start losing collagen at a rate of about 1% per year, and this leads to sagging, fine lines, and deep-set wrinkles.

There are many ways the skin changes in appearance, from sagging and sallowness to dark spots and wrinkles. When we talk about skin appearing "leathery" we're specifically referring to the texture, which will look thicker, tougher, and worn. 

The recent study from Binghamton University delved into what was happening at a biological level with leathery skin. And they found that ultraviolet radiation not only deteriorates collagen but alters the epidermis and stratum corneum microstructure. 

As the researchers exposed skin to more and more UV radiation, they found that the collagen became tightly packed and less malleable. Binghamton University assistant professor of biomedical engineering Tracy Hookway, Ph.D., noted that what they observed was essentially a prolonged wound response. The accumulated UV damage triggers the skin to essentially create scar tissue.

"Our body has this natural response in any tissue when there's some sort of injury, which likely happens in the stratum corneum," she said. "First, wherever there's some sort of weakening, there has to be compensation by some other part of the tissue or else there'll be catastrophic failure. Same thing happens in the heart when you have a myocardial infarction—you build up a scar and your heart's going to not work the same way anymore."

Sun damage does a number on the skin. There's a reason derms, beauty editors, and researchers alike constantly talk about how important smart sun care is. 

"We don't want to put a fear factor in here saying 'don't go out in the sun, but extended periods of time under UV light can toughen up your skin as well as lead to a higher risk of carcinogenic problems," says said Binghamton University associate professor of biomedical engineering Guy German, Ph.D.

The first thing is to wear sunscreen every day. SPF is the No. 1 healthy aging product available and can help protect your skin from damage, skin disease, and yes, aesthetic changes like "leathery skin." 

If possible, also be mindful of how you spend time in the sun: Avoid long stretches of time outdoors during peak hours (depending on where you are, this can range from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.), use smart accessories like hats and sunglasses, and find shade whenever available.